Dermatologists Reveal the Truth About Retinol — And Why It Might Backfire

Retinol — the gold standard in anti-aging skincare — has become a buzzword in beauty routines across the globe. But according to a recent Russian dermatological report, this powerful compound may not be as universally beneficial as the cosmetics industry suggests.

Russian dermatologists are sounding a note of caution: while retinol can visibly reduce wrinkles, even out pigmentation, and accelerate cell turnover, it can also cause serious irritation, long-term sensitivity, and worsen certain skin conditions if used improperly.

What Is Retinol, Really?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, known for stimulating collagen production and speeding up skin regeneration. Over-the-counter products typically contain retinol in lower concentrations, while stronger forms (like tretinoin) require prescriptions in many countries.

In theory, retinol helps fade age spots, minimize fine lines, and clear clogged pores. But experts warn: the benefits come with caveats.

When It Works — and When It Doesn’t

According to Russian skin specialists, retinol works best for people with oily or aging skin. However, those with sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone skin often experience flare-ups, redness, and peeling — symptoms that may worsen with continued use.

“Retinol is not a universal solution,” explains one Moscow-based dermatologist. “For many, especially younger users or those in cold climates, it does more harm than good.”

Additionally, retinol increases skin’s photosensitivity — meaning sun exposure can lead to quicker burning or pigmentation issues if sunscreen isn’t used consistently.

Common Mistakes That Backfire

Among the most frequent errors noted by Russian dermatologists:

• Starting with high concentrations without allowing the skin to adapt gradually.
• Skipping SPF, which is essential when using any form of retinoid.
• Combining retinol with aggressive exfoliants, like AHAs or physical scrubs, leading to irritation.
• Applying it too frequently — daily use is often excessive for beginners.

“More is not better,” specialists emphasize. In fact, many recommend using retinol just two to three times per week, particularly in winter or for those over 35 with no previous exposure to vitamin A derivatives.

When to Avoid Retinol Entirely

There are situations when dermatologists recommend steering clear of retinol altogether:

• During pregnancy or breastfeeding
• If you have eczema, psoriasis, or active dermatitis
• When taking photosensitizing medications
• If your skin barrier is already compromised or inflamed

For these individuals, gentler alternatives like bakuchiol, niacinamide, or peptide-based serums may offer similar benefits without the same risks.

Bottom Line: Know Your Skin First

Retinol isn’t a villain — but it’s not a miracle either. It’s a powerful tool that requires knowledge, patience, and customization. Russian dermatologists urge consumers to consult a specialist before introducing retinol into their regimen, especially when dealing with sensitive or complex skin profiles.

And as skincare trends come and go, one truth remains: what works for one face may harm another.

Sometimes, the best glow starts not with a miracle cream — but with better understanding.