How to Cook True Hungarian Goulash the Way Shepherds Made It Centuries Ago

Centuries ago, Hungarian shepherds-known as gulyás-cooked an extraordinarily thick and fragrant soup of meat and vegetables in a travel-worn iron kettle called a bogrács. Today we revisit that tradition and show you how to prepare true, authentic goulash.

Photo: Generated by AI (DALL·E 3 by OpenAI) is licensed under Free for commercial use (OpenAI License)

Hungarian goulash with paprika

Ingredients for Eight Servings

• Beef (lean) — 700-800 g
• Smoked lard — 30 g
• Pork lard — 40 g
• Large onions — 2
• Garlic — 1-2 cloves
• Large meaty bell pepper — 1
• Hot pepper — 1
• Potatoes — 3-4 medium
• Fresh parsley root — 1
• Small carrot — 1
• Dry red wine — 1/2 cup
• Large fresh tomato — 1
• Salt to taste
• Ground paprika — 1-2 tbsp or to taste
• Ground cumin or caraway — 1/2 tsp or to taste
• Fresh parsley for garnish

When Hungarians prepare the dish without meat, they call it hamis – "false goulash” – but the method remains the same, using bone broth or vegetable stock instead.

What Vessel Creates the Best Goulash?

Shepherds, fishermen and hunters carried little with them, often only a single pot-the round-bottomed bogrács that widened toward its rim. Everything happened in that kettle. Your kitchen may not have a bogrács or an open fire, but a heavy cast-iron pot works beautifully and delivers the same deep, layered flavor.

Hungary produces several types of dried paprika, each with its own character. The color hints at sweetness: the brighter and deeper the red, the sweeter the spice. The most common varieties include:

— Classic: bright red, slightly sweet and aromatic, perfect for vegetable and meat dishes; it enhances flavor without overwhelming it.
— Smoked: darker and richer, with a subtle smoky scent; excellent with meat, fish and vegetarian recipes.
— Semi-sweet: orange-red, mildly sweet and moderately hot; avoid frying it in fat to prevent bitterness.
— Pink: light red with a faint tartness and pronounced aroma; a piquant and spicy variety.
— Hot: yellowish or light orange, medium-grind, intensely hot though milder than chili powder; ideal for lovers of fiery dishes.

Paprika-bell pepper is also a powerful source of vitamin A, vital for eye health. Red peppers contain ten times more vitamin A than green ones, and a single sweet pepper provides the daily requirement of vitamin C for an adult.

Preparing Traditional Hungarian Goulash

Cut the beef into large cubes about two centimeters across. Melt the lard in a cast-iron pot and lightly fry the diced smoked lard until it turns translucent. Add the meat and brown it, stirring, until it forms a golden crust. Finely chop the onions and stir them into the pot, cooking until they soften and turn clear.

Cut the potatoes into large cubes, slice the carrot and parsley root into rounds, slice the bell pepper into strips and the hot pepper into rings. Add the parsley root, carrot and potatoes to the pot and sauté until half-cooked. Then comes the paprika: add it generously and mix well.

Pour in a cup of hot water, add a little salt and reduce the heat. Let the dish simmer until the meat softens, about an hour, adding water as needed and ensuring nothing burns. Top up the pot with boiling water so the dish reaches the consistency of a thick soup. Add the hot and bell peppers and cook for another ten minutes.

Dice the tomato, finely chop the garlic and measure the cumin and wine. Add the vegetables and wine to the goulash, simmer for five more minutes, taste for salt and remove the pot from the heat. Let it rest for thirty to forty minutes so the flavors mellow and harmonize.

Serve the goulash in rustic clay bowls, garnish with fresh parsley and add a generous slice of crusty fresh bread.